Mobile Climate Control Model 216 Electrical Wiring
The schematic I have shows F11 provides power to the Electronic Unit for Blower Speed Control. This unit interconnects the Blower Motor, Blower Resistors, Pushbutton Control Assembly & Temp. I noted that you mentioned no 12VDC to the Pushbutton Control. F10 provides power to the Pushbutton Control at pin 12 of connector #2 (black/red.
Mobile Climate Control Model 216 Electrical Wiring Diagram
Wiring & GroundingContents:;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;Do Not Use Existing Vehicle WiringNever, ever use existing vehicle wiring to power any amateur radio gear. This includes fuse taps, and so-called accessory sockets, aka cigarette lighter sockets! In part from the, sub-section 15-3.2.1:Overloaded Wiring. Unintended high-resistance faults in wiring can raise the conductor temperature to the ignition point of the insulation, particularly in bundled cables such as the wiring harnesses or the accessory wiring under the dash where the heat generated is not readily dissipated. This can occur without activating the circuit protection.There's rarely a single cause for any given car fire, even if an investigator can trace all the way back to the incident that sparked the blaze.
It's more likely that there was a combination of causes: human causes, mechanical causes, and chemical causes, and they all worked together to create an incredibly dangerous situation.The process is called thermolysis (aka pyrolysis). It is the decomposition of the insulation covering the wire, brought about by high temperatures— resistive heating in other words. Thermolysis may occur within a few minutes, or over an extended length of time. Ignore this rule, and your vehicle may end up looking like a burnt cinder!There is yet another issue surrounding the use of accessory sockets, factory-supplied 120 volt inverters, and that is RFI generated by the electronics built into these devices. Arcing can also occur between the spring-loaded tip of the accessory socket plug, and the positive contact inside the socket. The issue is pervasive enough, that some vehicle manufacturers have disclaimers about the issue written into their Owner's Manuals.
It should also be noted these conditions can cause codes to be written into the OBDII's memory. Whether these codes cause the MIL to illuminate is moot. More information on the MIL, and the codes which cause it to illuminate, are in the article.Where To Connect PowerFord's F-series, and other aluminum-bodied vehicles require special installation practices with respect to.
Here is the from Ford which explains what must be done to prevent galvanic corrosion. The results of failing to follow Ford's are predictable, and not covered under warranty! If in doubt, contact your local Ford dealer for details.
Pay particular attention to the grounding rules outlined in the! Further, bonding is not required, as Ford has already bonded the bed and cab.The same basic rules apply when installing amateur radio gear in other aluminum-bodied vehicles. However, their factory recommended installation procedures may be different than Ford's. It is always best to contact your local dealer and/or the manufactures customer support staff before installing any amateur radio gear in said vehicles.And as mentioned several times in this article, the body and/or the chassis of any vehicle, aluminum or otherwise, should never be used as a ground return for amateur radio gear. Again, think!Battery monitoring systems (BMS) are now a universal subsystem in every modern vehicle, due in part to the fed-mandated Engine Idle Shutdown (EIS). The load current is measured with an Electrical Load Detector (ELD), typically a mounted as part of the negative battery connector, or around the ground lead itself as shown in the photos below.
The measured data is fed to the engine CPU (known by a variety of names). This allows a more precise fuel-air adjustments for changing accessory loads (AC for example), the condition of the battery can also be monitored. It is imperative that the ELD not be bypassed when wiring amateur radio equipment, so typical wiring recommendations found in Owner's Manuals should not be followed!The pictorial at right is from this author's May 2015, QST, starting on page 35, entitled The Modern Mobile.
It clearly represents the correct wiring scenario, whereas the negative lead goes to the same chassis grounding point as the battery's chassis ground point. And as shown, the negative lead fuse should not be removed. The reason is, if the grounding point should lose its integrity, excessive current could flow through the transceiver's negative lead.
It also prevents a minor ground loop between the leads.It should be noted, that in some cases, the battery's chassis grounding point is inaccessible. If this is the case, attach the transceiver's ground connection close by.There are a few other related issues to be discussed. The first is the so-called VQM (voltage quality module). It is nothing more than a DC to DC inverter used to maintain accessory power while the engine is shut down (EIS requirement).
Power for the inverter may come from a more robust SLI battery, a dual-layer super capacitor, or a second trunk-mounted battery. In any case, these subsystems should be not used to power amateur radio gear! In other words, only the main SLI (Starting, Lights, Ignition) battery should be used!Proper wiring maintenance is an important undertaking, but one which is often overlooked. One all to common consequence is a failure of a battery lead and/or its connection to the chassis or distribution block.
The result is a load-dump transient (LDT). If one occurs, it is not uncommon for the resulting voltage spike to exceed several hundred volts! Fortunately, there is some built-in protection at least on late-model vehicles.The diodes used in most late-model vehicle alternators are more than just simple diodes.
They are designed to break down, and act like a reverse-biased zener diode should the output voltage exceed ≈18 volts. This provides first level protection for the on-board electronics should a battery connection be lost (LDT).
Some makes use a specific device to limit LDT spikes. These devices may help protect amateur radio gear interconnected to the vehicle's electrical system, but it doesn't alleviate the need to do periodic wiring maintenance especially fuse holders.As noted below, there are published standards for the voltage drop across a fuse and its holder. The drop assumes the connections are all secure. But time, dirt, and oxidation can cause these connections to increase in resistance, which increases the voltage drop. So part of the routine maintenance should include removing and reinserting fuses, power pole splices, and even transceiver-mounted power connectors.It is not uncommon for power to a vehicle's electrical system to be interrupted when installing radio equipment.
Whether inadvertent or not, this interruption can have consequences. For example, anti-theft protection built into Navi and entertainment systems are often activated. This requires reentering an activation code. In some rare cases, the ignition system can also be effected. While these codes may be readily available (in the Owner's Manual), but in some cases your dealer is the only source. In addition, vehicles equipped with programmable BMS (battery monitoring system) like BMW vehicles, may have to be reprogrammed by your dealer.
And, vehicles equipped with fuzzy-logic control systems, will have to reprogram themselves over time. The bottom line here is, if in doubt, read your Service Manual, or contact your dealer's service department before undertaking your installation.Ground LoopA ground loop is defined as a voltage differential between any two points, in either a power or ground connection. The most common manifestation is alternator whine superimposed (primarily) on the transmitted signal. The most prevalent cause is using a mag mounted antenna. Excessive grounding is another, particularly when a ground strap is used as a substitute for proper!Using the chassis for a ground return is yet another cause. However in this case, ground loops often appear to be an issue, particularly when they cause data corruption in one of the various on-board digital devices. This fact points out another important point.It is very difficult to separate the cause of a specific interference issue, when, ground loops, and real RFI mimic each other.
To assume a specific cause can be a real diagnostic time waster! Quite obviously then, correct wiring, bonding, and common mode choking at the onset of an installation, is a worthwhile endeavor!Adequate PowerIf your vehicle has either a heated back glass, or heated seats, chances are there is enough reserve to power even a 200 watt Kenwood TS480Hx. But, only when these systems are not in use.
If you're going to run high power (≈500 watts PEP output, ≈70 amp average draw), it is best to check with your dealer's service department who can tell you what size the alternator is. For high power, an alternator rating of at least 130 amps is required, and perhaps larger if the vehicle has high-level of accessories.More information on, and other power requirements, read the highlighted article.Expelling A Few MythsOne very popular RFI myth asserts that power wiring and coax cable runs should not be parallel to and/or bundled together with the coax feed line.
The truth is, coax doesn't leak RF! What can (and does) happen is. In this case, RF flows on the outside of the coax shield which can be both radiated and induced into surrounding cabling, whatever it is. It is this fact which no doubt led to the myth in the first place.There will always be some level of common mode current flow in any mobile installation. The reason is, there is always ground loss even a VHF frequencies. The more ground loss, the higher the level of common mode there will be.
Poor antenna mounting techniques (mag and clip mounts) and locations (trailer hitch and bumper mounting) increase the level rather drastically. As the article explains, proper choking of these currents must be applied. And if you don't? Your receive will be affected, even though you might not realize that it is.Twisting the positive and negative power leads together to enhance noise immunity and/or cure alternator whine and/or cure ignition RFI are popular myths. So popular in fact, that at least one automobile manufacturer mentions this myth in their two way radio installation guide! The truth is, power cables are not balanced in the same sense CAT5 cable is.
Thus twisting the power lead wires has virtually no effect on noise immunity at common amateur frequencies.Another popular myth is using a brute force filter to cure whine, or RF imposed on the power wiring (an exceedingly rare occurrence). For alternator whine, they're a patch at best, and if you wire your installation correctly, you won't need one. However, there is one thing brute force filters will do, and that's increase voltage drop.
For no other reason, they should be shunned.Contrary to advertising hype, ferrite beads installed on power cables are as worthless as brute force filters. The rule of thumb for both devices is, if they cure a problem, then something else in the installation is (was) amiss!Lastly, as mentioned in the article, Farad-sized capacitors have several serious drawbacks which effectively negates their use. And, they are not a cure for alternator whine, or an inadequately-wired installation.Factory Power CablesMost solid state transceivers are factory supplied with a 10 foot (3 meter) long power cable. The 2.5 mm diameter wire, it is slightly smaller than #10 AWG (1.076Ω vs.9987Ω per 1,000 feet). On average, the voltage drop through a stock power cable is ≈.6 volts (22 amps), which is slightly over the recommendation of.5 volts or less. This presents an enigma when extended factory cables. One example listed below suggests using a RigRunner.
However, any loss in the cable supplying the RigRunner is additive.The best solution is to replace the factory cable with a home brewed one, using larger a wire size. An alternative is to shorten the factory cable (between the RigRunner and the transceiver), and make sure the RigRunner wiring is adequately sized, so the total voltage drop is.5 or less. What Size Wire To UseThe primary basis for selecting the correct wire size is not its current handling capability. Rather, it is based on the voltage, drop under the impressed load, over the length in question. It is expressed mathematically as I2R loss. Therefore, it should always be based on the peak current draw, not the average.
And, it is always best to error on the safe side when it comes to voltage drop. Selecting the next larger size wire doesn't double the cost of the wire or that of the connectors.
If you're planning on running an amplifier in the future, it's always best to plan ahead and install the capacity you're going to need when the time comes.Modern amateur mobile transceivers universally operate on a nominal 13.8 vdc. In a mobile scenario, the DC voltage actually varies from below battery resting voltage (≈12.2), to as high as 14.4 when the alternator is charging the battery. If we allow the voltage to drop much lower than 12.2, most transceivers will simply shut off. And, at low voltages the power output drops, and the IMD increases.
Thus it behooves us to minimize the voltage drop in our wiring. With that in mind, we need to know the peak current draw.
In both cases the manufacturer's published figures are close enough. For an average 100 watt (200 watts input) transceiver, the peak current is approximately 22 amps which includes some parasitic draw like the cooling fan. A 50 watt FM transceiver is about half that or 11 amps.Here is the formula for calculating the voltage drop for any given size and length of wire including the slight drop due to the fuses and their holders.
For the record, voltage drop is frequently referred to in amateur literature as I 2R (current squared times resistance) losses, but I 2R actually refers to power loss.(Rw. 2l.001) + 2k. A = Vd where:Rw = the 1,000 foot resistive value from the Handbook: (#12=1.588Ω, #10=.9987Ω, #8=.6281Ω, #6=.3952Ω, #4=.2485Ω, #2=.1563Ω).l = Overall length of the cable assembly including connectors.k = nominal resistive value for one fuse and its holder. Note: most power cables have two fuses. If yours doesn't, use 1k in the formula. (If you don't know the fuse and holder resistance, use a conservative value of.002 ohms.) You should also add in the voltage drop across any Anderson Power Pole connection.
On average, that.002 volts per connection, at rated load.A = Peak current draw in amperes.Vd = Cable assembly voltage drop.Please note that most on-line do not take into account the voltage drop across the fuses. At rated load, a 30 amp ATC fuse (used in most late-model transceiver power cords) has a voltage drop of 95 mV (.095 volts).
A 60 amp Maxi fuse will have a voltage drop of 77 mV (.077 volts) at rated load.Another reason to shoot for less voltage drop is temperature rise. Since an automotive environment is hotter than a base station one, over-sizing the wire (less resistance) will keep temperature rise to a minimum. Too high a temperature rise, and the insulation could melt ( pyrolysis).Minimal voltage drop is even more important if you're using an amplifier. For example, an HF 500 watt mobile draws between 25 and 40 amps average with peaks of about 100 amps including the driving transceiver.
Again, the wire selection should be based on the peak current draw, not the average, in an effort to minimize IMD (read that as splatter). This is why a second trunk-mounted battery is a mainstay for high-power installations. Even then the main feed from the front SLI battery should be at least number 4 AWG, and preferably 2 AWG if the length is over 20 feet.In compliance with vehicles which utilize a battery monitoring system, the negative lead for the remote battery should be connected to the same chassis point the SLI battery ground is attached.
Further, the chassis should never be used as a ground return, especially on aluminum-bodied vehicles. The positive lead should be fused (typically 60 amp rating) on both ends to protect the wiring.Insulation & StrandingSolid wire (single-strand) should never be used in a mobile installation. This includes CAT5 cable often used as a lessor expensive alternative to factory-supplied, modularized cables. All solid conductor wire will work-harden under vibration (always present in a mobile), and it should be obvious what will happen when (not if) it fails.It should also be noted, that twist-on wire-nuts should never be used as a splice. They're designed to be used only with solid wire, and their use on stranded wire is a vehicle fire in the making! Think thermolysis!As mentioned above, the insulation temperature rating of vehicle wiring should be at least 90°C (195°F) in the passenger compartment, and 105°C (220°F) in the engine compartment. All exposed wire should be covered with protective split loom no matter the quality or type of wire used.Abrasion resistance is also important.
Construction grade THHN and THWN wire has an outer nylon jacket making them very abrasion resistant. However, construction grade wire is almost always 7 or 19 strand (depending on the wire size), and rather stiff. High strand count super-flex wire like that sold at mobile sound stores is almost too flexible. Automotive wire is usually 49 strand, is much easier to work with, and will generally stay where you put it.
However, you should still use cable ties to keep it in place.Cross-Linked polyethylene (XLP), and Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC) are both acceptable products, if they're rated at 90°C (195°F) or higher. However, most after-market sound-system wire is insulated with Polyethylene, an inexpensive thermoplastic. It is moisture resistant, but its poor heat and flame resistance makes it a poor choice for mobile installations. It is sold in a variety of transparent, neon-like colors, and is not recommend for under-hood wiring.
Its extra flexibility means it must be well restrained especially near terminals and connections.There is another consideration with respect to super-flex wire including high strand count welding cable. You must use crimp-type connectors to properly terminate them. You can solder them with an iron, but it takes a BIG iron to get it properly whetted, and even then it wicks badly creating more problems than it solves.
This isn't a concern with 49 strand automotive wire—if you know how to solder!Incidentally, some cheap imported super-flex wire uses an unknown insulation material which is hygroscopic (moisture absorbing). It should be evident what will happen over time when it is laying next to sheet metal or another similarly-insulated wire.Wire Lugs & TerminationsSecure wiring terminations are an absolute necessity for any mobile installation, yet it is the one item most often short circuited (pun intended). Especially important are the heavy-duty leads directly from the battery or jump points to where the transceiver is located, because it often necessitates a transition between the large and small gauge wiring. While some folks use butt splices for the transition, they are difficult to solder, and in some cases mechanical crimping alone does not provide the best of connections.One of the most important requirements for secure terminations, is using the right crimping tool. Forget about using those cheap, all-in-one, stamped-metal ones often given away with terminal assortments. For small connections (#18 to #10), the hand tool is one of the best.
Both types are shown at right.Trying to use #12 terminals for #18 wire is another common faux pas. It pays to have a wide assortment of terminals, and lugs on hand.For larger sizes (#4 to 4/0), a hydraulic crimping tool is a necessity. TMS makes several different inexpensive ones, and all are available through Amazon. About the only difference are the variety of crimp dies they come with. Both hand-held and vice-held models are available. They average about $50 delivered, and are well-worth the expense.Some of the best terminal devices are based around the Anderson PowerPole ® connectors. And market these devices (as shown below), but a caveat or two are in order.
First, some types are not completely sealed, so they need to be placed in such a manner to prevent any object from dropping on their partially exposed connections (water, dirt, keys, etc.), however unlikely.Secondly, some of the various models marketed use preinstalled cables which are usually too short (and too small of a gauge), and require butt splices to attach them to the power source. Extending the cable's length also increases the I 2R losses, so proper sizing is important. If possible, choose one without a built in primary cable, and add your own in the exact length, and size required.Their best attribute is the ease of connection and disconnection.
The unit in the left photo is a RigRunner ® model 4005 from. They carry many different models in a variety of configurations to suit almost any mobile or base requirement. If you're interested to learn more, there is a good article about Anderson Powerpole devices in the March 2006 issue of QST starting on page 31. Incidentally, some models of the RigRunner ® have LED indicators that light when a fuse blows, and a few have USB power connections as well.Both West Mountain Radio and PowerWerx carry just about any kind of terminal, fuse block, and wire you could think of.
Although the biggest wire size they carry is #6 AWG, it has a high strand count which makes it very flexible, and therefore easy to install.The 4005 pictured above comes with a 6 foot, 10 AWG primary power cord with 45 amp connectors already installed on one end, and 1/4 ring connectors on the other end. If you need a longer (and larger) cable, go to web site for more information. While you're there, look over the other amateur related devices, especially their wire crimper! Use a cheap crimp tool, and you won't be able to marry the housing with the respective terminal! By the way, take time to read the instructions which come with the tool.
If you don't, you'll invariably end up twisting one or both wires so the terminals will seat properly in the nested housings.Incidentally, when using a 4005 or similar distribution block, in a vehicle, no matter where the negative lead is attached (battery or chassis), both it and the positive lead need to be fused. This prevents a small ground loop from occurring between the leads, and prevents damage to the block and/or attached devices, should the negative lead connection fail.As with any wiring, it should be protected from shorts, abrasion and other maladies. Therefore, any excess should be cut off, not bundled up with a cable tie—think voltage drop!Power Pole connectors come is a variety of colors, and most match the color of the various fuse amperages used in the aforementioned distribution terminals. Thus, if you select a connector with the same color as the ATC fuse, you're less likely to plug a cable into the wrong amperage fuse slot.If you run an amplifier and/or second battery, the PP120, and PP180 are good choices for a quick disconnect for wire sizes up to 2/0. The only drawback is the requisite crimper, which sells for about $300 with dies. By the way, it isn't advisable to solder these large connections.Finding connectors for wire sizes over #8 can be a problem. Here are a few places you might not have thought of.
Has stores all over the United States, and they do mail order as well. They also carry fuses and fuse holders. Carries larger sized connectors than or, but the latter ones will special order.On a local basis, welding supply shops, electric motor rewinding shops, OTR truck parts houses, and oil field suppliers often carry heavy duty connectors.
Most hardware stores, Lowes Home Improvement Centers, and Home Depot stores are a waste of time for anything larger than size 10 AWG. When buying connectors, buy the best quality you can, as scrimping on connectors is a prescription for a failure!Wherever possible, I suggest using ring connectors, rather than spade type connectors because the stay put even if the connection loosens. All connectors should be both crimped and soldered to insure strength and low resistive connections. It is also a good idea to use star washers under the lugs to assure a tight connection.
And avoid butt connectors.Rigorous inspection of wiring and fuse holders should be carried out at least once a year. This may require removing and reinserting fuses in their holders. This is especially important when using tubular fuses, housed in spring-loaded, in-line holders. The inspection should also include looking for discolored parts which might indicate a loose connection or overload condition (pyrolysis).As mentioned above, excess cabling should be shortened as required. Unfortunately, some amateurs just can't bring themselves to cut up a $12 factory power cable. The typical response is, '.what if I have to lengthen it when I change vehicles'?
Here's the answer; use Power Pole connectors to make your splices. If you need to extend the cable later, take that cutoff piece (you did save it because you're a typical amateur, right?), apply Power Pole connectors to it, and you're back to a full-length cable.
What could be easier?Terminating BlocksIt is often necessary to use terminating blocks, but there are a few caveats. Inadvertent contact with the terminals should be avoided for obvious reasons. This means they need to be well placed in more ways than one! Insulated terminal covers are often available, and should be used whenever possible.Speaking of insulation, don't use electrical tape to protect the terminals! If you must cover them, use, which leaves no residue, and is noncorrosive.One good source for terminating blocks is. One of there kits comes complete with positive and negative blocks, and an assortment of lugs. They sell through.
Also makes terminating blocks. They're available through, and other marine retailers.All About FusesThe definition of a fuse is relatively simple.
It is a short piece of enclosed wire, which melts when subjected to too high of a current. When it does, the circuit opens.
However, if you've chosen the incorrect size for your application, it may not open. Or, it may open after a very long delay. In any case, you want the fuse to do its job, well before your wiring becomes its own fuse! A good example of incorrect fusing is illustrated in the right photo. The wire size is #6 with a current-carrying capability of ≈100 amps, and the fuse is 200 amps!Fuses are there to protect the cabling (wiring), not the transceiver!
For example, the Icom IC-7000 has a 5 amp (system) fuse mounted inside the radio, and 30 amp fuses in the cabling (both plus and minus leads). If you short out a supply connection (pin 3 of the tuner port), a circuit board trace and/or switching transistor will fail long before the 5 amp fuse opens. The 30 amp fuses will never open in this particular case.
It can be argued that the power cable fuses do protect the radio if something fails catastrophically, a final perhaps, but chances are some other component in the circuitry will be damaged beyond repair before the power cable fuse(s) opens, and here is why.All fuses exhibit a time delay between any given ampere overload, and when the fuse opens. This delay (hysteresis) is called Ampere Squared Seconds, and is expressed as I 2T. For example, a nominal 20 amp fuse will handle a 30 amp load for about 90 seconds. It will hold a 100 amp load for about 1 second. Just after the fuse element melts, there is a brief short period of time when an arc occurs, after which the fuse opens the circuit completely.
.SERVICE TIPS 81 Dometic REFRIGERATORS Models RM2612 RM2812 RM2652 RM2852 OS1927 4/96 Copyright 1996 The Dometic Corporation.THE MOST COMMON SYSTEM PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH THE RM2612, RM2812, RM2652, RM2852 REFRIGERATORS CAUSE SYMPTOM REFRIGERATOR SECTION No operation no panel lights Operation DC Volts Fuse Wiring Upper Circuit Board Lower Circuit Board Operation No operation has panel lights DC Volts Thermistor Fuses Wiring.CAUSE SYMPTOM LP Gas - cools Insufficient cooling on Gas properly on Orifice AC mode. Flue Baffle Flue Tube Burner Lower Circuit Board Operation Freezes. Thermistor Lower Circuit Board DC Volts 9.
Check light on. Wiring LP Gas Manual Gas Valve Solenoid Orifice Burner.(RM2652, RM2852) LEGEND 2-WAY MODEL Main Power Button ON/OFF AUTO/MANUAL Mode Selector Button A. AUTO Mode indicator lamp B. CHECK indicator lamp (Gas Mode Only) C. Climate control switch Dometic o CHECK AUTO0 (IIfzl = OFF REFRIGERATOR CONTROL MANUAL LEGEND.START-UP INSTRUCTIONS Before starting the refrigerator, check that all the manual gas valves are in the ON position. DO NOT forget the manual shutoff valve on the rear of the refrigerator.
This refrigerator is equipped with a control system, which can automatically select the most suitable energy source which is available, either 120 Volt AC or LP gas operation.If 120 volts AC becomes available while the CHECK indicator lamp is on, the control system will switch to 120 volt AC operation, The CHECK lamp will not turn off until the main power ON/OFF button is pressed to the OFF then ON position. In AUTO mode operation, the temperature is controlled by a single temperature setting.COMPONENTS- HEATING ELEMENT Remove the heater leads from the lower circuit board and measure for proper resistance across the two leads. You should obtain the following readings,.lo%: OHMS WATTS VOLTS RM2612 RM2652 RM2812 RM2852 D C V O L T A G E R E Q U I R E M E N T S Clean Direct Current (DC) power is mandatory for high-tech circuits to operate as designed.The operational range of the unit is a minimum of 9.6V DC to a maximum of 22V DC. At 22V DC, the unit will automatically shut down until voltage has decreased to 18V DC for proper operation; however, the panel lights will continue to illuminate until voltage has dropped to 4V DC or below. Do not use the body or chassis of the RV as a substitute for either or the two conductors.SOLENOID VALVE Check the solenoid coil with a properly calibrated ohm meter. Remove the connector from the solenoid and measure the resistance across the terminals. The proper reading would be 49 ohms with tolerance range of ten percent.
Next, hook up a manometer at the test port. Then check for DC volts at gas valve terminals while the unit is in trial-for-ianition.UPPER CIRCUIT BOARD NOTE: The PAL tester will allow for proper testing of the integrity of the upper and lower circuit boards. PAL is available from your Dometic parts distributor.
With main ON/OFF switch on display panel in OFF position: Check for DC voltage at Plug 1, Terminal 4 (orange wire) and terminal 5 (red wire) negative (-) DC on the lower circuit board.Next, do the same voltage test at the lower circuit board. Red wire (-) negative plug 1, terminal 5, to green wire, plug 1, terminal 1 and black wire, plug 1, terminal 3. If there is no voltage and you had voltage on previous test, the cable assembly is defective.DC VOLT: ALL TESTS ARE TO BE DONE WITH THE REFRIGERATOR IN THE COOLING MODE. Measure volts between terminal J4 and the ground strip. AC MODE: Check that incoming AC voltage is present at terminals J5 and J6 on the circuit board. Check for voltage at the heating element connection terminals J7 and J8 on the circuit board.CLIMATE CONTROL HEATER To check the switch, disconnect the wires and do a continuity check. In the OFF position, there should be no continuity.
In the ON position, there should be a continuity reading. To check the heater itself, do an ohms resistance reading on the heater wire by using a properly calibrated ohm meter.SECTION 7 LP GAS COMPONENTS MANUAL GAS SHUTOFF VALVE To check the shutoff valve, remove and inspect for any obstructions. Manual Gas Connection Shutoff Valve Shown in “ON” position) RM2652 & RM2852 Gas Connection Manual Gas Shutoff Orifice Valve (Shown in “ON” Position) Pressure Test Port ORIFICE.RM2852 1-7/8' FLUE TUBE The flue tube must be cleaned periodically. Remove flue cap and flue baffle, then cover the burner and clean by using a flue brush, Dometic Part No., WIRING EXTERNAL WIRING A.
120 volts AC Connection The refrigerator is equipped with a three-prong (grounded) plug for protection against shock hazards and should be plugged directly into a properly grounded three-prong receptacle.@-PROTECTIVE @ - B U R N E R H O U S I N G EARTH @CHASSISGROUND &K%:' @-CICCUI BOARD DISPLAY -@SOLENOID @-CIRCUIT VALVE BOARD POWER.SWITCH @-ELECTRODE @-SWITCH @ F U S E.TERMINAL BLOCK @-FUSE 5A @ - T 120V H E A T E R E S T.AIR LEAKS Check the gasket on the doors to be sure of a positive air seal. Close the door on a dollar bill, then pull the dollar bill out. If a gasket is not sealing properly, warm the gasket material with a hair drier. Close the door and the magnetic strip should pull the gasket to the metal frame.C.
When the front strip is in place, install one screw through the hinge and into the floor. The second screw is installed with a washer on the opposite side.
Second: Install the two screws in the top frame. A.The top decoration panel must be removed from the refrigerator before the screws can be installed.D. Replace the top decoration panel. Third: Two screws installed as shown in rear base. DOOR POSITION The door position can be checked by observing any misalignment of the door in relation to the frame. Loosen the hinge bracket screws, reposition the door then tighten the hinge bracket screws. To adjust up or down, add or remove washers from the lower hinge pin.To check the cooling unit, first verify the AC heating element is good.
Then place approximately one gallon of water inside the refrigerator and place a thermometer in one of the containers of water. Supply volts direct to the AC heating element and operate for at least 12 hours.
Check the tem- perature on the thermometer.